Council Room, The

Set just off the main lobby of the snazzy Sandia Resort & Casino, the clubby, softly lighted Council Room offers a relaxing alternative to the clattering slot machines of the gaming area, which is safely out of earshot. The kitchen here turns out reasonably priced, classic renditions of old-school steak-house favorites, from the beer-battered megastack of onion rings to a chilled iceberg lettuce wedge topped with beefsteak tomatoes and bacon and slathered in blue cheese dressing. In addition to the usual steak cuts, consider the full rack of smoked baby back ribs, or the Colorado lamb shank braised with tomatoes, raisins, and pine nuts and served with garlic-mashed potatoes. The house margaritas are stellar even by New Mexico standards. Try the green-chile apple pie, a spicy-sweet marriage that works far better than you'd ever expect. www.sandiacasino.com. AE, D, MC, V. No lunch.